Nikon 28mm and 85mm f/1.8G lenses on Fuji X-E1 - Continued

All images - Fuji X-E1 and 28 and 85mm f/1.8G lenses













As in my previous post on this combination - http://soundimageplus.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/nikon-28mm-and-85mm-f18g-lenses-on-fuji.html, I really like the images these two Nikon lenses produce. At the end of that post I wrote that pictures taken with these lenses are the best I've ever got out an X-Trans sensor. Yesterday merely confirmed that. Thats better than the Fuji lenses I've used - 18mm, 35mm, 60mm and 18-55mm. And I have to say it again better than the raw samples I've looked at from the Zeiss Touits. 

On Fuji 'selective blindness' its happening again. A lot of Fuji X owners, not all I hasten to say, hype up these cameras as being better than they are and fail to see any faults. This is happening with the Touits as well. Lets just take the 32mm f/1.8. The Nikon 28mm f/1.8 I'm using here is sharper, has better colour rendition and much better bokeh than I saw on the raw samples from the 32mm f/1.8 Touit I've downloaded. See - http://soundimageplus.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/sick-as-touit.html?q=Touit
But as seems usual with this system, they are being described as sensational. Well once again I suggest you see for yourself and see if you think those samples are good. I don't. Maybe the production models will be better. I would hope so for the people who buy them. You can get a clue from some of the reviews. Things like 'The 32mm f/1.8 gives a smoother rendition than the Fuji lenses' Thats code for they are soft, of course.

However moving away from what I think is overpriced, overated, overhyped gear from a lens maker that is living on past glories to one who actually still knows how to make a sharp lens, I'm really pleased at seeing my X-E1 images deliver such great results. These lenses are manual only on the Fuji of course and that will obviously put a lot of people off. But since Nikon are hardly likely to make these lenses in a Fuji X mount I'll just have to put up with that. I have worked out a quick accurate way of focusing with my Kipon adapter so its not so bad and the pictures I've included include people, boats and trains moving just to show that MF and some thought can be used to focus quickly and stop the action.

I would also mention how good the colour is. Once again the Touits seem to have somewhat dull colour rendering. I mentioned in a previous post that this seems to be less important than it was in years past for reviewers. I guess its a different priority now digital and Photoshop is involved to when people were shooting colour transparencies and had to get things right in camera. 

I imagine a question some people might ask is why use these lenses on the Fuji when I can use them with AF on my Nikon 7100? The answer to that is the nature of the X-E1 sensor. Firstly, with its excellent medium to high ISO performance, that is better than the D7100, I can use higher ISO settings and therefore higher shutter speeds and narrower apertures. The other is Fuji colour. This sensor does produce remarkably deep rich colours which is just right for the kind of pictures that I sell, and I prefer what the camera produces to the D7100 in this particular comparison. I have to sell pictures from thumbnails and they have to have an impact at that small size, so files with saturated colour are an advantage. 

Finally, I've taken a couple of pictures to show you what all three of these Nikon f/1.8G lenses look like on the camera. No beauty contest winners here, and in fact they do look quite ugly. But and its a big but, they handle beautifully for MF lenses and I can focus accurately and change aperture with the camera still to my eye, even with my polaroid sunglasses on.




Incidentally, just to give an idea as to what using the Kipon adapter is like (see below), the two marks I've put on the barrel of the adapter show just how small the amount of movement possible is in selecting the aperture. I'm showing this so that you can see how finding out what aperture I'm using is virtually impossible, and pretty much guesswork. However the system I've come up with is to turn the ring on the adapter all the way to the left, which opens up the lens to f/1.8, focus, since its easier to focus wide open and then start turning the ring all the way to the right so that I end up with a shutter speed that I feel appropriate for what I'm shooting. Sounds fiddly and indeed it is, but with the size of the barrels on these lenses I can manage the whole thing quickly without moving the camera from my eye, and even after a couple of days I've got quite good at it. If things are moving about, it does involve a fair aount of anticipation and moving the adapter before I start composing. And thats where 30 years of taking pictures for a living comes in very handy. But focus peaking would really be a great help here.